Thursday, July 23, 2015

Rain, research, reading and rescues (sums up what I’ve been doing)


So since the last time I blogged (which was sooo long ago I know!), it rained for a whole solid day inside the park and out all the way to Ovalle where we go for groceries and internet. We set out to trap that day in the park and soon realized that what we thought might be a morning sprinkle was going to be a true “rain”. When we talk about rain here the people always say “was the water running?” which basically means was there flowing water moving down the roads. If not, then it’s not really a rain. So we had to stop working and took that opportunity to go to town for groceries. We noticed as we were leaving the park that there was some kind of bike event going on, we kept seeing groups of people biking through Fray Jorge and even outside the park by our town. When we left to go the highway some were sticking out their thumbs to hitchhike so we let them get in the bed of the truck with their bikes and dropped them off at the highway. They were very appreciative and asked us what we were doing here, and then said thank you very much in English to us. When I drove into Ovalle that day there were literally rivers flowing through the town. Luckily we have our high clearance 4x4 truck so the water didn’t stop us but I couldn’t believe how some of the little sedans were risking it. The rain is very exciting for me because it means that it might not be such a bad year for the degus food-wise, and the chances of them forgoing breeding this year, like last year, will be much smaller.





Wet pups





















Each day Megan, Alex, Kendra, and Kendall go out to perform day telemetry from 9:30-5pm. In the morning I trap at my site to find degus that will be part of my official trapping in September-October. In the afternoon I move over to one of the enclosures to trap degus for Megan’s project. She still needs 1 more degu from an enclosure to give more power to her research, but unfortunately it is a very inactive enclosure biologically. We call it the ghost town. I don’t catch degus often, and if I do they are male (we need a female).

Megan's team ready to rock!
Simulating telemetry
Kendra's always making a silly face for pics
Some of my degus
We are very lucky to have Alex working here with us because she is a great cook and enjoys it (she says). After a long day in the field we are always grateful that she is willing to cook. Also, she makes delicious zucchini bread. We’ve had it so many times in Chile and you can imagine that between five of us it does not last long (doesn’t even usually make it past dessert).


I started reading an interesting book called What We Should Be Worried About. A group of scientists come together each year to talk about a specific topic and one year it was what they are worried about. They are psychologists, physicists, evolutionary biologists, mathematicians, economists, etc. It brings up interesting points for conversation but I know that since each point is the opinion of one specific scientist it is very biased. I asked Kendra about one piece that mentioned the Baha’i faith (of which her family are members). Specifically the author mentioned that Baha’i believe, like Christians, etc. that there will be Battle of Armageddon. She wrote to her mom and it seems that that is not in fact a belief of the Baha’i so that makes me question the fact-checking of the group/editors/etc. Nonetheless, it is a very interesting book that brings up topics like aliens, dependence on technology, population growth vs prosperity growth, and even some people’s concerns about future underpopulation on Earth.


As I was waking up the other morning I had that moment where I didn’t know I was here and felt like I was home and I genuinely felt that my dog Waldo was sleeping the crook behind my knees. He did this a lot and I would know that I couldn’t just kick my legs around as I might have if he wasn’t there. I quickly realized that there wasn’t an actual dog here with me and I was wishing that there was. I told the group about this as we drove to the park. We parted ways for our daily activities. When I was driving back from trapping before I could even get out of the car Juan and Megan were yelling to me about a little dog in the park and pointing out by one of the enclosures. Kendra was luring a scared little black dog to her with peanuts. I guess they had been seeing this dog around all day and fed it some of their lunches. Kendra managed to pick up the dog and we all agreed to take it back with us. We had this same issue last year when we found 3 dogs in the park and the park guards take it seriously about no dogs being in the park to the point where I remember us all being concerned last year that they were going to kill the dogs (we never were sure what happened to them). So we took him home. He was so scared of all of us at first and didn’t like the other dogs around the property which bummed me out because I was hoping he would just join their pack. We decided to let him hang out in the house, where he started to warm up to us, and immediately made himself home on the little couch we have. We gave him water and food and decided to keep him in the house overnight because he was skin and bones, scared, and it was very cold and very very windy that night. He didn’t have any accidents or anything, he has an instinct to pee outside, and didn’t make a peep in the night. We felt bad about leaving him the next morning to go to work, and he tried to chase our truck at first. We all thought about him throughout the day, and I was worried we would never see him again. Kendra and I were walking around the property looking for him when we got home and we both had a concerned look in our eyes, I think we were both assuming he was gone. And then it was just like the scene from Homeward Bound: The Incredible Journey! He came running out of nowhere to us sooo excited wagging his tail and leaping up onto us!!! We were so happy. Today was much better, he was just sitting under my hanging laundry when we came home. Still soo excited to see us though!! He is very vocal and likes to “talk” to us and but his front paws and stretch on us, and almost leaps into our arms. He would be an awesome agility dog, but his is sooo tiny! As silly as he is in those moments, he will just curl up on the couch and sleep for the rest of the time. The first day we had him, a couple selling empanadas came to our gate and we bought some. I ate one and put one on the table meaning to bring it for lunch the next day but when I came out of the kitchen what do I see but Zorro up on the table and he grabbed my empanada!! We took it from him but he got a big bite out of it and then I figured he might as well have rest. It had some meat in it which we don’t keep in the house but clearly a dog needs in their diet so I was happy to contribute that to his dinner. We will be getting him dog food tomorrow in Ovalle. It’s so nice to have a dog inside the house to pet and talk to. But I do want him to join the pack of dogs that hangs out around the property so when we leave he will have that stability. They get fed by the construction workers and other people in the town. It was funny that we found him the day that I was wishing I had a dog to sleep in my bed. I restrained from bringing him into our room because he could have fleas, ticks, etc. but by the second night I said I was going to put him on my bed for the night. He was passed out on the couch when we came back from telemetry around 1130 so I let him stay put, and I’m very glad about that now because the next morning I discovered that he has worms! Not surprising for a stray dog. In fact, the dog Oso has the same problem (the construction workers told us about it a while ago). We are going to pick up some medication for him in Ovalle, where it is apparently pretty cheap.
The little prince. I know it's not good quality but I had to show him in his spot


The day we rescued him!


Sleepy Zorro
So that’s been the excitement around here! For anyone that’s wondering about my project, it’s going well. There’s not many degus, even compared to last year, but I’m working everyday to find active burrow systems. Due to the rain, there is actually green things sprouting from the ground which didn’t happen last year! Maybe I’ll actually have food to measure for my dataset this year (fingers crossed).





We've been braiding hair in our spare time





Pretty moon





Snowy Andes in the background

Sunday, July 5, 2015

Viva Chile!

Yesterday was Fourth of July! It is also the final for the Copa América! It was Chile vs. Argentina and I think most Chileans had already come to terms with the fact that Argentina will win. I'm so happy to say that Chile won after 90 minutes plus 30 extra because it was still 0-0 then we went into penalty shots and Chile scored 4/5!!! It was awesome. I'll never forget when Marcelo, the guardaparque in charge at Fray Jorge, lept up and ran out of the room screaming when we watched Sanchez score the 4th penalty to win it. Chile has been competing in the Copa for almost 100 years without winning so they made history last night!!! And we saw amazing fireworks on TV for the win so we counted that as part of our 4th of July celebration!

We’ve shifted to working on Megan’s thesis project which involves putting radio collars on degus in the experimental plots (75m x 75m) that have been in Fray Jorge for 25+ years. We are shooting for 3 female degus from 2 plots with predator exclusion and 2 control plots. In an experiment a control is an un-manipulated treatment so here the plot looks just like a normal part of the land but there are stakes around the perimeter so you can realize it is a plot. The predator exclusion plots have mesh and wire all around it so that foxes, hawks, etc. cannot get in, but small mammals can.  We will be tracking the degus with radio telemetry during the day to determine home ranges.

There are dogs and cats (and donkeys and chickens) around our property. There is a big beautiful lab Kendra named Rocky. And then my favorites, two little tan wiry terriers that I call the twins. Kendra named one Scruffy but they’re both a little Scruffy. Maybe Scruffy and Scrappy will be their names. They remind me of my two boy dogs from home. They wander mostly side by side and separate to pee around the property, always on our truck at some point and then they swap and go pee where the other did. Then they go off side by side to explore a different part of the town.
Scruffy (left) and Scrappy (right)


Beautiful sunrise in the park (soon this will be commonplace)

Abrocoma bennettii (Bennett's Chincilla Rat) we caught in our traps!


There are some cats that I got to pet last night on our porch. One is so beautiful with orange, black and white coloring. Then there was a little black and white cat that wasn’t allowed to come very close to us according to the other cat, and seemed more timid. But I lured him over with a biscuit and then realized all he really wanted was to be pet and didn’t care much about food. He is so sweet, but still a little scared.



We saw a man with his donkey and dog yesterday coming from behind our town. The donkey was loaded up carrying so much wood on his back. I felt bad because it wasn’t secured very well so it jostled around with every step the donkey took and did not look comfortable at all.

It is such an interesting living situation because our land lady lives right next to us, and she has family members that live in the other houses around us. She came over to bring us extra sheets and said to give her our sheets to be washed whenever we want. We haven’t had clothes pins to hang out laundry so we’ve just been tying stuff up on the line and hoping things don’t get blown away. We made a note to buy some the next time we go to town but then she came over with a whole bunch for us to use! She’s so nice.

Also, never underestimate the power of unplugging! I’ve been able to finish part of my data analysis that I’ve been working on for months, simply because I had no internet/TV/texting to distract me. I also love how much I read when I’m out here. I read so much last time because we had a lot of down time. This time we will be working full days but I am still able to read a lot at night so I can read a book every 2 days or so. That being said, I welcome any books suggestions you might have!!!

Wednesday, July 1, 2015

New experiences in Chile

I made it to Fray Jorge, only to turn around and head back to Santiago the next day. There was some errands for the project that Loren and I needed to work on so I came back for a few days. One task I had was returning our rental truck. We noticed the morning we packed up to go to Fray Jorge that a back tail  light was a little busted. Loren suspected that the rental company would make me go to the cops before I could finalize the return and he was right. So I got to experience a Chilean police station for the first time. It went smoothly, but then the rental company showed me that apparently the center caps were taken off of all 4 hubcaps. Don't know why anyone would want to steal those things... 

Then I had another new experience: riding a bus from Santiago to Ovalle. I had almost the whole first floor to myself (one other woman was on it). And I had one of the fancy seats called a salon cama (not just the usual semi cama) so I could recline more and had a lot of foot space. I watched two movies: Hangover 3 and Rush. Very different, both entertaining in their own ways. They were in Spanish with Spanish subtitles so I got a lot of practice in. Hearing it and reading it is very helpful for me. Also, in the last week I was in Santiago we all went to a movie in Spanish! It was the Inside Out movie, called Intensamente here. I liked it a lot and it was very cool to see a movie in Spanish on a big screen, but I couldn't follow all of it. We did miss out on hearing the American actor's voices so for those reasons I will probably see it again. 

Loren and I stopped at a beach town for lunch and to look at the ocean. There was a tiny dog so happy to be running around in the waves and of course my faves, sea gulls! My internet connection is slow right now so I will try to post pics of the beach on facebook :)

Chile will be in the Copa America final on the 4th of July! Very exciting, but they'll be playing Argentina so even the Chileans are pessimistic about that game. 

Our house is in a town outside of Fray Jorge and is very nice. We have a fridge and freezer, a little more space than last year, friendly dog and cat neighbors, beds with real bedding and pillows, drinking water, but unfortunately no hot water for showers :( I guess I'll be using the sponge bath method where I heat water on the stove first. 

Next up will be pics of degus at Fray Jorge! I'll be going into the park tomorrow for the first time since November 2014. Megan already found one of my males still alive and kicking (and hopefully breeding right now) and I hope to find more!


Living room

Kitchen



I'll miss these guys from the field site at Rinconada

Three dogs waiting for a bus in Ovalle


Wednesday, June 17, 2015

Field work, and other activities...

I feel like most people I know ask me about my trips to Chile as if they are a vacation, when really it is the busiest and most important part of my year. Which doesn't mean that I don't get to have fun here, because I really do! We've been working really hard trapping. We hike up a mountain to get to our traps and then sit in the cold for 3+ hours watching with binos for a degu to enter a trap and if one does we yell "DEGU!!!". Then a team of 2 goes running down to the degu to collect blood and it has to be within 3 minutes of the degu being trapped. Lots of time the degu enters, eats a lot of oats without setting off the trap, and leaves. Sometimes they dig around the outside of the trap and manage to get oats that way. But we've been doing pretty well, getting 2-4 degus a day. We come back to the lab around 3pm and have to process our samples and sometimes we have a group meeting to discuss projects. The field is fun because you never know what you may encounter. Sheep frequent the area by our traps, there are lots of beautiful birds flying around, and today we saw two foxes being chased away by the herd of sheep. 

The Copa America is going on right now so it gets really exciting when Chile is playing. And Chile is hosting so all the games are being played somewhere in the country (there are two stadiums in Santiago). It was amazing to watch Chile beat Ecuador. We were watching in a bar and it is so impressive to see everyone singing, chanting and celebrating together. After the game that night there was karaoke!! So fun! Chile tied their game with Mexico and the next game is this Friday against Bolivia. 

This past Sunday we took a much needed day off and I drove some of us to Valpo. That city is so cool with all of its street art and of course there are dogs everywhere. We sat along the coast and watched sea lions for awhile. I took so many videos of them flopping off their basking structure and then hopelessly trying to launch themselves back up. We visited a very touristy part of the city called Cerro Alegre and ate at a place called Fauna. Like the name suggests, there was somewhat of an animal theme with each table having an animal figurine on it. Ours was a tiger. The menu was in Spanish and English and the staff all spoke English, which made it a lot easier as we were all trying to pay for our food separately and figure out the tip with the cashier, etc. etc. 

In a little over a week I will be going to Fray Jorge. I am excited for the peace and quiet and the clean air (Santiago smog is really getting to me). Of course it is a challenge not having internet. But we will be very busy with projects there so I do not think I will miss it that much. Megan and I watched the whole new season of Orange is the New Black on Netflix so we don't have to miss out on that once we are in the park :) 

A few other random things I've seen in Santiago: a really cool outdoor Zumba class that appeared to be free! and a giant parade that lasted all day supporting the legalization of marijuana! 

Here are some art shots from Valpo:



I love the art

This is not my photo but I loved this street art in Valpo!


Love the new field shirts!


Sea lions

Fox skull I found while peeing!
Valpo dog on the rocks with us

Valpo dog
Valpo dog
Valpo dog
Ascensor in Valpo
Valpo view
Loved this sculpture by the ocean
Valpo dog waiting to cross the tracks with us
Sleepy Valpo dog
Another view with some ocean 
Traffic from our balcony on a Chile game day
Great degu handling shot with Kendall, Kendra and Carolyn at Rinc
Megan retrieving a degu from a trap while Kendall checks out our data in the field notebook

Panoramic view from the apartment in Santiago
Panoramic view from the field site in Rinconada
Can you spot the sheep?
Megan and I stumbled upon Rocky Horror Chile!
Sleepy Santiago dog at the university
We've been joking about taking our own #distractinglysexy field photos.
 



 



Monday, June 8, 2015

At it again!

Flying over the Andes (this time at sunrise) is still the coolest thing I’ve ever seen in my travels. I told a lot of people this before I left, but Delta gives you complimentary wine, beer and liquor on international flights which is awesome. I tried to sleep on my flights but ended up watching a lot of movies. We had a very easy time getting through immigration and customs and lined up a taxi very quickly. I warned the other students about how crazy taxi rides can be and it sure was a crazy one. At one point the driver pulled over on the highway (where there was barely a shoulder so we were basically in traffic) to adjust the suitcases in the back. Then dogs started chasing our car as we pulled away (I had also mentioned the street dogs to the students by then). 

It’s crazy how it feels like I never left Santiago. I still remember my way around (at least in the areas where I’ve been before) and the university is exactly the same as when I left it on December 1st.  My apartment is really cute but pretty small. I am trying to appreciate all the amenities (comfy bed, comforter, pillows, couch, WiFi, ice cubes) that I don’t have in Fray Jorge. Although, this year we are supposedly living in a house with a refrigerator (which means a freezer for ice cubes), beds, etc. so I’m hoping it’s a more comfortable 6 months than last field season. The view from the apartment is pretty cool, although you’ll notice the smog in a lot of the pics. It’s definitely worse than anything I see in Phoenix. Santiago is in a valley, like Phoenix, so smog sticks around, unless it rains and then you can get beautiful views of the Andes. We watched a fútbol match yesterday for the Champions league between Barcelona and Juventus. Barcelona won 3-1. It was fun to have some drinks and get to know the other students with us. A postdoc from NDSU, Carolyn Bauer, is here with us for a couple weeks, and we were all able to go out to dinner last night. We went to a Peruvian place, Ají Seco. I had my first pisco sour of this field season. It’s a Peruvian drink but Chile also claims it as its own. During the day we went to a vegan fair which was awesome! We got lots of goodies. I bought some cheese (made with cashews), a little quiche, and a vegan dessert. Today we went to the lab to get everything ready for the field tomorrow. I’m so excited to go see some Rinconada degus! 

Apartment kitchen/living room

Poster at the vegan fair

Another street dog!

Pisco sour

Street dog party (3 dogs)

First dinner out for Team Degu!